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Trials HOW TO'S

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Below you will find the humble beginnings of a page dedicated on how to do trials manuvers. If you have any tips, tricks, and or techniques for doing simple or even complex trials moves, please let me know and I will post them here. doachs@gac.edu

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John on a log

There are many ways to cross log piles

How you do it depends on the specifics of the log pile itself. The first approach is to go at them head on. Start by putting your front tire up on the first log, then move it up to the next log. The back tire will follow behind, climbing the logs as if they were steps.
Many times the first approach doesn't work Usually the bike is the wrong length to hop up a log at a time with each tire. In that case it is easier to climb the log pile at an angle. Start with an angle of about 45 degrees to the logs with your front tire on the first log. Continue up the log pile until your back tire touches the first log. Then you hop up one log with the front tire and one log with the back tire.
Yet another way is to take them by lining up parallel to the logs, and hopping up the pile sideways, both tires at the same time,one log at a time. Here is another way as described by Peter Johannesson: You lift the front wheel and stand jumping on the back wheel. Then you align yourself parallell with the piles and jump sideways. It takes much practice but when you can hold your balance on the back wheel it's much easier (you don't get so tired) than jumping with both wheels touching the ground. I bike in Gothenburg, Sweden. Here we have lots of plateus and benches.



Sidehopping

"To pull off a nice sidehop from virtually any height there is a good way of doing it that almost guarantees your back wheel landing first.

Roll slowly along the wall or whatever it is you're juming off, and stop. Get your balance, and then pull a 'manual' endo, swinging the back wheel over the edge of the drop. When you feel it starting to drop down below the level of your front wheel, lean back a bit and pull the front wheel up and sideways over the edge. You might want to practise doing this off a kerb or a 2' wall before you start doing any serious height, because you've got to get enough swing on it so that your bars or cranks don't catch the wall as you drop, which hurts. As you fall through the air pull up on the bars and push down with your feet. The more vertical you can set the bike up, the sweeter the landing'll be. This gets important when you start hopping off 6 foot walls.

As you get better and more confident, you'll be able to pull the hop without stopping first, and you'll eventually get the momentum (and the technique) to pull 180's and finally 360's off walls. (I think you need a corner to pull a 360 off, but I can't do them yet)

I know a fair bit about tricks, that is I'm not great, but I'm not bad either. I'm from Lancashire in England and I've been into trials for just under a year now."

Paul Stewart

Gap Jumping

The gap jump comes in useful when riding trials because you need it to cross gaps that are more than a wheel's diameter, for example, a standard pallet sized gap.

There are two ways to do it from standstill;

1) If your bike can just straddle the gap with a tyre on each edge of the gap, start off by pulling a short wheelie and then applying the back brake so that the front wheel lands on the other side. Shuffle the bike forwards so that your back tyre is just on the edge of the gap. To do this sort of thing I would advise putting a lowish pressure in your tyres, probably 15-20 psi would do. Because your tyres are so springy when they're on a narrow lip, put your weight right back, crouching over the back wheel, and then lurch forwards, hopping the bike as high as you can, and drawing the bars right up to your chest to basically drag the bike across the gap. You're aiming to draw the bike as far forwards as you are capable, so that the back wheel safely lands on the other side of the gap. If you find that your back wheel keeps falling down the gap and not quite making the distance, there is another method that you can try, where once you've put your front wheel on the other side, you rock the bike about, from the front wheel to on the back wheel (both brakes on!) and then once you've got the momentum, go up on a high manual endo, and then lay off the front brake. The bike will start to roll forwards across the gap, but your back wheel will be losing height. When it does, smoothly apply the front brake and lean forwards slightly to draw the back wheel up again. Keep doing this until you're within reasonable distance, and then lean right back, lay off the front brake and push the bike forwards as hard as you can to make the back wheel land just on the edge. Basically you've just pulled a stoppie over the gap from standstill.

2) If the gap is just too large to clear with method 1, then you need to forwardhop over the gap.

To pull this sort of jump, you must wheelie to the edge of the gap and apply the back brake, so your front wheel is hanging over the edge. As your front wheel starts to drop, push down hard on the pedals to lift it again and as you do this, jump the bike as far up and forwards as you can. The bike should travel across the gap at an angle of about 50 degrees, and as you're in the air, you should lean forward to stop the bike tipping over backwards, and also lock the back brake on so that the bike stops when it lands.

Give it a shot.

Paul Stewart


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